REVIEWS

EPICUREAN RENDEZVOUS

The landmark restaurant of Coral Springs, Runyon's has maintained and increased its popularity since 1984, almost as long as this relatively new metropolis has existed. "The key to our success, "says owners Jack and Valerie O'Connell, who named the restaurant for the famous journalist Damon Runyon, a friend of O'Connell's father, "is Consistency." We have many employees who have been with us since we opened, and we work very hard at keeping consistently top quality food and service. With a rich decor that simulates an inviting country inn, the restaurant features large, woodframed tables, upholstered Colonial chairs and archways. The walls are adorned with scores of pictures of famous politicians, actors, and athletes, who have enjoyed Runyon's in the past years. Runyon's is noted for it's real American food. Giant portions of prime rib, steaks, fresh fish, chops and live Maine lobsters. Oversized Idaho potatoes, and beefsteak tomato salads are equally as famous. Nightly specials add a contemporary flair to the menu. Recommended Items: APPETIZERS - Shrimp Caparrelli-stuffed with prosciutto, garlic & bread crumbs - Blackened Seared Tuna - French Onion Soup- ENTREES - Rack of Lamb - Prime Rib - Steak Au Poivre - Maryland Soft Shells & Crab Cakes

Meet Runyon's In Springs...The Miami Herald

These Steaks Would Please Fred Flintstone

BY C.B. Marino

I owe a great deal to Fred Flintstone. He taught me what I know about fashion (who says big men can't wear polka dots) and what I look for in a steak (a prime rib should always be bigger than your means of transportation). Fred liked his meat and so do I. Rare and on the bone, just like the opening scenes of my favorite cartoon. If Bedrock were one of the "gated communities" of Coral Springs, I'm sure Fred and Wilma would know about Runyon's. If they happened to be millionaires they probably be regulars. Runyon's doesn't look like your typical high-end steak house: no white tablecloths (or tablecloths at all for that matter), no dark "clubby" atmosphere- though there is a piano bar with music from 7 p.m. to midnight-and no personal humidors. What they do have in common with the rest of the genre is big steaks and big prices. Runyon's has been around for a long time by South Florida standards-since 1984. Everyone is greeted like an old friend, with kisses or at least warm welcomes. Familiarities aside, we waited nearly an hour for the first available table. Runyon's doesn't take reservations after 6 p.m. During that time we got to see a lot of food pass our way. Most tantalizing was a genuine Fred Flintstone-esque roasted veal shank ($38.95). Right than and there we decided that no matter what else we ordered, that mammoth piece of meat would be the guest of honor at our table as it was at so many others that night. Having spent the hour studying the menu and actually seeing most of it pass our eyes, we knew what we wanted before the waiter had the chance to ask. As luck would have it-after an hour's ride, an hour's wait and a seat in the smoking section (first available) - the kitchen had just served its last veal shank. I nearly cried. The waiter tried to console me with the promise that it would be available again, in about seven months. We were not amused. An appetizer of shrimp Caparrelli ($11.95) did manage to turn my mood around again. Three fat, juicy jumbo shrimp are wrapped in soft layers of mild provolone cheese and salty prosciutto, rolled in garlic-scented bread crumbs and baked to a golden turn. A single Maryland-style crab cake ($10.95) was bursting with sweet, genuine, jumbo lump crab meat but was too small for the price. A large crock of richly flavored French onion soup ($5.95) was thick with caramelized onions and gooey-good with melted Swiss, provolone and mozzarella. All main courses at Runyon's are accompanied by the soup of the day, a house salad or an entire, sliced beefsteak tomato and onions vinaigrette. Unlike many steak houses, the restaurant includes a baked potato, garlic mashed potatoes or the house vegetable in the entree price. Though Runyon's doesn't serve "prime" grade meat-only 2 to 3 percent of all beef farmed in the United States is prime - they do pride themselves on their justifiably famous prime rib ($34.95 on the bone, $27.95 boneless). In honor of Fred and Barney, we went with the 34-to37-ounce, bone-in selection. The massive hunk of meat was as tender, juicy and flavorful as any prime, prime rib we've had at other places. The puffy golden brown cloud of Yorkshire pudding (a type of popover baked on top of the pan drippings) was a classy Olde World touch. The one-pound, bone-in Kansas City veal chop ($34.95), served on a mattress of sauteed mushrooms, onions and wine sauce, was surely as large as promised but so disconcertingly similar to a big fat pork chop in shape, flavor and texture only a DNA test could say for sure. Veal Oscar ($33.95) was in the Wilma and Betty category. Three thin, lightly breaded sheets of veal medallions are briefly sauteed and scattered with pearly white, lump crab meat, emerald asparagus spears and sunny yellow hollandaise sauce. Very tasty, very pretty, but very petite. It's hard to leave Runyon's without a full stomach, or credit card, but you shouldn't pass up a thick, moist slab of Mile-High chocolate layer cake ($5.50). Order one for the table and you'll be glad you did. Yabba dabba doo!

Fine Dining Restaurant: RUNYON'S
Food: GOOD
Service: Pleasant and well trained
Atmosphere: Casual "anti-steak house" steak house. Check out the walls of fame featuring celebrities and the staff.
Price range: $$$$, Most entrees over $20.
Address: 9810 W. Sample Rd., Coral Springs
Telephone: 954-752-BEEF (2333).
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday; 4 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Credit cards: All major.
Reservations: Accepted all nights but Friday and Saturday.
Children's menu: Yes
Bar service: Full bar and extensive wine list.
Designated nonsmoking section: Yes
Wheelchair Access: Yes.